A Favorite Meal, Now Offering a Side Order of Environmental Awareness

New York Times
By ELISABETH ROSENTHAL
Published: January 15, 2008

LONDON — The restaurateur Tom Aikens is opening a sustainable fish and chips restaurant this month in London’s trendy South Kensington. Diners at Tom’s Place will be able to fulfill their consumer desires and be environmentally correct, too, but at a price.

His travails to guarantee a fish supply for his restaurant show how hard it is to find fish that is sustainably and legally caught.

Mr. Aikens spent most of last year learning about fish and developing recipes around fish species that he knows are not overexploited. “I wanted to change the tradition where you order turbot or salmon from a dealer at Billingsgate and know little about its origins,” he said in a recent interview at another upscale restaurant he owns, called Tom Aikens. “With meat, I pat the cows, see the farm, meet the farmer. With fish, it takes an incredible amount of time and effort.”

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